bolt removal and replacement techniques
There are many different types of bolts in use at our climbing areas. On this page we will describe extraction and replacement methods for bolts that are commonly found while rebolting.
In general, bolts should be replaced by reusing & expanding the original hole. There are some exceptions to this: when the old placement is in rock that is poor quality, removal of the old bolt is impossible, or severely overhanging terrain creates safety and efficiency challenges.
Anchor replacement ethics can be complicated: holds can break, bolts may have been added since the first ascent, rockfall damage can occur, etc. Before beginning work the local climbing community and first ascentionist (if available) should agree on the work being done, and if the original hole can’t be reused, the bolt should be moved a minimum distance that is appropriate for the situation.
The ASCA does not provide hardware to add additional bolts to climbs.
Wedge bolt removal
Wedge bolt removal used to be considered difficult or impossible. However, with modern techniques, these bolts can often be removed quite easily and the hole widened to install a new anchor.
Chopping and Patching
Extraction and widening the old hole should be prioritized whenever possible but is not always feasible. Whenever an old placement is abandoned we should strive to cut and patch the old placement as cleanly as possible.
sleeve bolt removal
The most common of these is the “5 Piece” bolt. Removal of these can be quite easy but is often complicated by corrosion or deposits from the rock.
star dryvin bolt removal
Similar to removing buttonheads but with an extra step. These bolts are quite weak and should be prioritized for replacement.
placing Mechanical Anchors
Mechanical bolts are ideal in harder rock, when future removal may be necessary, in alpine or remote locations, or when you need to immediately load an anchor after placement.
compression bolt removal
Buttonhead bolts fall under this category and are fairly widespread, removal is simple but does take some specialized tools. Most compression bolts should be prioritized for replacement.
placing Adhesive anchors
Glue-ins are ideal for softer rock and very high traffic placements. They are extremely long-lasting and removal is difficult. When properly placed they require very little maintenance but require careful placement.
Build A bolt extraction tool
Bolt extractors are a very useful tool when replacing old 3/8” wedge or 5 piece bolts. This page will give you a list of parts and assembly instructions for the “Doodad” a very effective tool created by Greg German.