placing adhesive anchors

Video courtesy of ClimbTech

Adhesive anchors (aka “glue ins”) are an increasingly popular option for stewards who are maintaining and upgrading climbing hardware resources. These are the strongest and lowest maintenance bolts available to climbers, but special care must be taken to ensure proper placement and longevity.

There are special workflow considerations for placing glue ins. Our recommended method is to drill and thoroughly clean all holes in one pass, and then place the anchors in an efficient manner on your next pass up or down the line to avoid adhesive setting up and clogging your nozzle. If working in warm temperatures with quick-setting adhesives, keeping tubes stored in a small cooler until ready for use will help increase working time.

When correctly placed, adhesive anchors are extremely strong, have an impressive life span, and work well in softer rock types. Careful work is critical for safe and long-lasting placements. Always follow manufacturers specifications for adhesive storage and application when placing glue-in anchors.

#1: Equipment Checklist

  • Adhesive: ASCA provides AC100+ Gold Vinylester (“AC100”). Regardless of type you are using, always check the expiration date of your adhesive. Do NOT use expired adhesive. AC100 Product information with instructions for use: http://anchors.dewalt.com/anchors/products/chemical-anchors/injection-system-chemical-anchors/ac100plus_gold.php

  • Adhesive Logging Sheet

  • Dispenser Gun

  • Adhesive Mixing Nozzles/Tips: each adhesive cartridge comes with one, best to have several extras on hand as AC100 sets quickly and can result in a blocked nozzle especially if working in warm temperatures.

  • Nitrile Gloves: Protect skin and easily clean up excess adhesive 

  • Rags

  • Hammer

  • Special tool (only needed if placing ClimbTech wave bolts in harder rock, you could also use a rubber mallet)

  • Hammer drill and compatible masonry bits (sized to bolt manufacturer specifications)

  • Bolts: The ASCA provides several different types of glue-ins, make sure you know any special considerations for the bolt you are placing (notching required, Wave Bolt Tool, etc)

  • Blow pump and tube brush for cleaning holes

  • Large and small plastic bags 

#2: Preparation

  • Because placement is time-sensitive (depending on temperature and the adhesive being used you may only get a few minutes between applications before your mixing nozzle hardens), you should drill and clean all holes before you start gluing. Be sure to use the correct hole diameter for the bolt you are placing. 

  • Storing your adhesive in a small cooler can be useful to keep it within an ideal application temperature, especially if using AC100 (current ASCA preferred adhesive) on a warm day. Follow manufacturers instructions regarding adhesive storage, application temperatures, set and cure times.

  • Fashioning some type of holster with a disposable bag attached is recommended to prevent dripping glue on the route and staging area between applications. The cut-off top of a 1-gallon milk jug with a trash bag taped on the bottom works well for this. Attach a lanyard to your holster and reuse it, the trash bag is replaced for each work session.

  • Once all holes are drilled and cleaned (be sure to follow manufacturer specifications closely for hole preparation, this is critical for proper placement), it is often preferable to place bolts while ascending so you don’t contact bolts with your weighted rope(s) while the adhesive is setting.

#3: Placement

  • Record adhesive batch number and expiration date (stamped on tube) on your log sheet along with the route(s) it will be used on. 

  • Before using the adhesive in a hole make sure it is mixing correctly in the application nozzle. This will take ~4 pumps, dispose of these into your trash bag. Once the adhesive is mixing properly, squirt a little bit in a ziplock to inspect later for correct curing. AC100 is a consistent gray color when mixing properly.

  • As you place bolts, pay careful attention to the adhesive to make sure it continues to mix correctly and produces a uniform gray color throughout the entire process. If switching to a new tube of adhesive or a new nozzle, always squirt several pumps into your trash bag until uniform mixing is observed.

  • Start with the nozzle tip all the way in the back of the hole, slowly pulling out as you fill with adhesive, filling the hole around three-quarters full. When you insert the bolt some excess adhesive will get pushed to the surface, clean this up with a rag. Remember that people will be judging your work decades from now, good craftsmanship is important here.

  • Some glue-in bolts are not a good choice for overhanging routes as they will slide out of the hole before the adhesive sets and will need to be held in place by tape. Others have an interference fit and can be tapped in place to set. The Climbtech Wave bolt takes more force and can be placed with their Wave Bolt Tool or a hard rubber mallet to avoid damaging the bolt. 

  • Some bolts are designed to be recessed in the rock, others are not. Always thoroughly read the manufacturer’s instructions before beginning any work.

  • Red tag and provide signage for the climb if you are not able to be present before full cure of the adhesive. At very popular crags, this may not be sufficient, and you may need to have someone stay to keep climbers from using the curing bolts.

  • After curing (follow manufacturer specifications based on temperature during placement), inspect the bolts and the test adhesive you bagged before starting placements. Record test adhesive results on the included log and if the adhesive has cured properly then remove and patch any remaining old bolts and attach any additional hardware to the anchor for lowering/rappelling. Always use a stainless steel quick link for any permanent connection point to a stainless steel glue-in bolt.