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Red Rocks  
 
Red Rocks
Route Notes Date Thanks to
Archaeopteryx Replaced the protection bolt pitch 1, and one anchor bolt pitch 1. NOTE: guidebooks incorrectly list 3 protection bolts on this pitch; there is only 1.

05/07 Greg Barnes, Josh Janes
American Ghostdance Replaced bad hangers at first pitch belay with new hangers. 04/07 Josh Thompson
Arrow Place Replaced all 4 anchor bolts. 11/02 Greg Barnes, Matthew
Schutz, Karin Wuhrmann
Bird Crack Replaced 1 bolt at 3-bolt anchor, removed extra (1 good). 03/06 Greg Barnes Karin Wuhrmann
Black Orpheus Replaced all bolts, (15) except the last bolt on the last pitch, which while original, is very far to the left and is nearly always skipped to reduce rope drag (or because the leader doesn't even spot it). 03/02 Lawrence Garcia, Karin Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes
Bodiddly Third protection bolt - a 3/8" buttonhead with an old Leeper hanger - replaced. 03/02 Laura Snider, Greg Barnes
Breakaway Replaced webbing at pitch 2 anchor with quicklinks & heavy duty rap rings.
05/07 Josh Janes, Greg Barnes
Burlesque Replaced protection bolt. 04/06 Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann
Captain Curmudgeon Replaced the first 2 pro bolts, the third is good. 03/06 Greg Barnes
Cat Scratch Fever eplaced both bolts at the first pitch anchor. 03/06 Greg Barnes,
Anthony Anagnostou
Chicken Eruptus Replaced both protection bolts. 03/02 Laura Snider, Greg Barnes
Chuckwalla (aka Chuckwalla 21) Replaced all bolts. 11/02 Jorge Urioste, Greg
Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann
Coffee Generation NOTE: the bolt on this route is original, but it is a 3/8" bolt with good hanger (incorrectly reported as 1/4" in one guide).   Greg Barnes
Cold September Corner One bolt at anchor replaced, huge pile of webbing
removed, rap rings installed.
03/04 Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Maggie Merchant
Cole Essence Replaced one 1/4" anchor bolt; the other bolt was already 3/8".
05/07 Greg Barnes, Josh Janes
Crude Behavior All bolts replaced. 06/10 Killis Howard
Crude Street Blues All pro bolts replaced. 06/10 Killis Howard
Dark Shadows Replaced 5 bolts: first pitch protection bolts, one bolt at pitch 3 belay, one bolt at original pitch 4 belay, and the protection bolt on pitch 5. Most anchors higher on route are one old and one newer bolt, and all can be backed up with natural gear. One protection bolt off of a ledge on pitch 6 is an old rusty 1/4". 10/01 Greg Barnes, Mark Limage, Barry Hutten
Diet Delight Replaced the protection bolt. 03/06 Greg Barnes, Paul Rasmussen, Bowe Ellis
Doobie Dance Replaced anchor on this moderate route. 03/02 Laura Snider. Greg Barnes
Dream Of Wild Turkeys Replaced 39 bolts; all bolts to pitch 11 except one each at pitch 10 and 11 belays, and the old pitch 4 belay (usually skipped), which is one 3/8, one 1/4" original bolts. Pitch 10 and 11 belays now have one 3/8, one 1/2, and one cool double-clip point original Urisote 1/4" hanger; these hangers left at the request of Jorge Urioste. Pitch 12 has one bolt and a belay station which likely have original bolts, but can (probably) be backed up with natural pro. Update 04/04: Second protection bolt on pitch 2 replaced. Note that the Swain guides incorrectly call this pitch 110'; it is actually 150', and can not be linked with the first pitch with a 60m rope without simulclimbing.
03/01
04/04
Mike White, Rick Poedtke, Jack Hoeflich, Matthew Schutz, Greg Barnes
Eagle Dance Replaced 72 bolts. All bolts replaced except the 4 bolts on the last pitch (130' 5.9 crack + 4 bolts), and the fourth bolt on the short 5.10 pitch above the bolt ladder (the Swain guidebook misses this 50' pitch between the 5.8 A0 and the 7-bolt 5.10c). This latter bolt was the only original Urioste protection bolt on the entire route that was 3/8", and it is also right next to a 1.5" crack. Greg Barnes, Lawrence Garcia, Karin Wuhrmann, plus some key help lugging gear from BLM Climbing Ranger Jed Botsford, and Dave Anderson, Paul Rasmussen, and Mike & Mark from Canada. 03/02 Greg Barnes, Lawrence Garcia, Karin Wuhrmann, BLM Climbing Ranger Jed Botsford, Dave Anderson, Paul Rasmussen, and Mike & Mark from Canada.
Early Times Replaced 18 bolts; all bolts except 4th, 10th prot. bolts on pitch 1, and pitch 2 anchor (one 1/4" and 1 3/8", usually skipped). 04/01 Gary Fike, Greg Barnes
Epinephrine Replaced 6 bolts; all protection bolts on pitches one and two. All bolts to the top of the tower are bomber (thanks to Dan McQuade!), but almost all protection bolts above are a mix of rusty 3/8" with old (bad) SMC hangers and 1/4" bolts. There is a good 1/2" bolt at each belay except the very last, which is an old 3/8" and an old 1/4", but is easily backed up with a 3" cam. We advise backing up the protection bolts where possible, and using Screamers (2001).

Replaced 7 protection bolts (2 on pitch off Black Tower, 2 on pitch off Elephant's Trunk, 3 on next pitch (2007).
11/01









04/07
Greg Barnes, Jesse Jackson, Jason Addy









Josh Thompson, John Wilder, Greg Barnes
Fiddler On The Roof Replaced 3 bolts, one at each of the first three anchors above the roof. 10/01 Mike White, Greg Barnes, Barry Hutten
The Flesh Replaced the pro bolt on the first pitch. 04/07 Josh Thompson
Fold Out/
Sesnuous Mortician
Pitch 2 protection bolt replaced. This was originally established as a huge traverse variation to the left on pitch 2 of Fold Out (before Sensuous Mortician was established), but is far more logical as a second pitch to Sensuous Mortician.


05/05 Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann
Forget Me Knot Replaced 2 bolts. 11/02 Mike White, Rachel Arst
Frigid Air Buttress Replaced the original belay bolt (pitch 6 by Joanne
Urioste's original Red Book).
04/06 Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann
Friendship Route Replaced 3 bolts. 03/02 Laura Snider, Greg Barnes
Frogland Replaced 7 bolts. 11/02 Mike White, Rachel Arst.
Greased Lightning Replaced webbing at the anchor with quicklinks & heavy duty rap rings.
05/07 Josh Janes, Greg Barnes
Great Red Book Replaced all 5 bolts. 11/02 Matthew Schutz, Rachel Arst, Karin Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes
Head Case Replaced 4 hangers. 11/02 Matthew Schutz, Rachel Arst, Karin Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes
High Anxiety Replaced all 6 bolts; 2 protection bolts pitch on 2, anchor on pitch 2, and 2 protection bolts on pitch 3. 03/08 Greg Barnes, John Wilder
Ixtlan Replaced 9 bolts; 7 protection bolts on pitch 1, and one bolt each at pitch 2 and 3 belays. Old (thin) SMC hangers on 3/8" bolts replaced at belays 2 and 3 with camoflaged ring hangers. The four protection bolts on pitch 3 are all original: first is 1/4", and upper 3 are 3/8", all with original hangers. The first 3 are not needed with modern cams to 6". This pitch is severely over-rated for those familiar with Yosemite offwidths; it is 5.10a not 5.10+/11-. Pitch 2 anchor should be backed up with 3.5-4" cams since the bolts are in somewhat suspect blocks. Pitch 4 (a bolted squeeze chimney) has original 1/4" bolts, and presumably the upper pitches have entirely original bolts. One 60m rappel (i.e. two 60m ropes) easily reaches the ground from the top of pitch 3. Move the knot over the edge when rappelling to prevent stuck ropes. 03/01 Jack Hoeflich, Matthew Schutz, Greg Barnes
Joanne of Arch Replaced 2 bolts at the pitch 2 anchor. 03/06 Greg Barnes, Bowe Ellis
Juggernaut Replaced anchor 03/08 Josh Thompson, Greg Barnes, Joe Denicola
Just In Case Replaced 1 hanger. 11/02 Matthew Schutz, Rachel Arst, Karin Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes
Kemosabe Replaced the bolt. 03/02 Laura Snider, Greg Barnes
La Cierta Edad First 3 pitches replaced - 5 protection bolts and 6 anchor bolts. First pitch is shared with Breakaway(2004).

Replaced top anchor (all bolts now replaced), and 3 bolts on the raps shared with Unfinished Symphony (still some old bolts on the raps). (2007)
03/04




04/07
Chris Van Leuven,
Bryan Law,
Greg Barnes



Josh Thompson, Greg Barnes

Lethal Weapon Replaced two bad bolts at the pitch 1 anchor with one good bolt; a third bolt was already good.
05/07 Josh Janes, Greg Barnes
Levitation 29 All bolts replaced.


Mark Limage, Jorge Urioste 1999; Greg
Barnes, Mike White, Karin Wuhrmann, René Vitins.
Lotta Balls Crux protection bolt replaced, and one bolt at the first pitch belay anchor replaced. 03/02 Laura Snider, Greg Barnes
Mac & Ronnie with Cheese Replaced pro bolt that had recently pulled out completely (yikes!). 12/09 Mike Moore
Mai Tai Replaced all 3 bolts. Use the first pitch anchor on the Friendship Route to descend, or finish Friendship Route and rappel Rob Roy. Either way requires two ropes to descend. 03/02 Laura Snider, Greg Barnes
Meteor Replaced anchor on pitch 1. 03/08 Josh Thompson, Joe Denicola, Greg Barnes
The Misunderstanding Replaced hangers at pitch-2 anchor; all webbing removed and replaced with links at bother anchors. 05/05 Greg Barnes, Josh Thompson
Mountain Beast Replaced all 10 ¼” bolts on pitches 4 & 5, and removed extra ¼” bolt. 03/06 Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Hamid Aghdaee
Mushroom People Replaced slings with links/rap rings. 04/07  
Nightcrawler Replaced 10 bolts: 6 pro bolts p3, anchor p3, 2 pro bolts p4. Anchors and one pro bolt p3 previously replaced, don't know by whom. Anchor on top of pitch 5 is old bolts. 04/07 Matt Ruppell, Greg Barnes
No Laughing Matter/Serious Business Replaced anchor. 11/02 Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann
Only The Good Die Young Replaaced 23 bolts; all bolts on route except last protection bolt on 5.11 traverse on 4th pitch--which is an original Urioste 3/8" bolt--and is best left unclipped to reduce rope drag anyway. 10/01 Greg Barnes, Barry Hutten
Out of Control Replaced anchor. 11/02 Mike White, Justin Shields, Emily Hazelton<
Overhanging Hangover Two bolts replaced on first pitch, one extra bolt
removed.
03/04 Chris Van Leuven, Bryan Law
Parental Guidance Replaced 4 protection bolts, switched a homemade hanger for a good hanger on the one good original protection bolt; and removed a hangerless bolt which was the original 3rd protection bolt (which the FA team hung from to drill the one good bolt)


05/07 Josh Janes, Greg Barnes
Prince Of Darkness Replaced 57 bolts; all remaining 1/4" protection bolts, and one at pitch 5 anchor. Two original bolts were left at pitch 5 anchor at the request of Jorge Urioste. 03/01 Mike White, Rick Poedtke, Jack Hoeflich, Matthew Schutz, Greg Barnes
Refried Brains Replaced anchor p5 (one bolt had already broken off at anchor!), and 3 pro bolts p6 (first had been replaced previously). All bolts to the top of pitch 6 now good (original Joanne Urioste pitch numbering). 04/07 Greg Barnes, Julie Haas
Ringtail Replaced all 16 bolts. 11/02 Greg Barnes, Mike White, Karin
Wuhrmann.
Risky Business Replaced all 1/4" bolts: 9 bolts replaced, 3 extra 1/4" bolts removed at anchors.   10/01 Greg Barnes, Mark Limage, Barry Hutten, Josh Thompson, Greg Barnes
Rob Roy Replaced all 5 bolts; 3 protection, and 2 at anchor. 03/02 Laura Snider, Greg Barnes
Rock Warrior replaced 27 bolts; 5 excess bolts pulled--which were left by earlier rebolters with new bolts right next to them. All bolts to the top of pitch 6 replaced. Anchor for pitch 7 is one 1/4" and one fixed nut; upper fixed protection unknown. 03/01 Mike White, Rick Poedtke, Jack Hoeflich, Matthew Schutz, Greg Barnes
Sandstone Samurai Replaced first protection bolt (2001).

Replaced all 6 bolts pitch 1 (4 pro bolts, 2 anchor). Note that previously replaced bolt identified as Sandstone Samurai (from our BV Wall replacement in 2001) is not on that route, but on an unknown variation (probably to Rock Warrior). Also, there is an unknown route left of Sandstone Samurai (and right of American Ghostdance) with old 1/4" bolts (2007).
03/01





04/07

Greg Barnes






Josh Thompson, Matt Ruppell, Greg Barnes


Schaeffer's Delight Replaced all 7 protection bolts 03/01 Rick Poedtke, Greg Barnes
Slabba Dabba Do Replaced 3 bolts. 11/01 Mike White, Rachel Arst.
Small Purchase Replaced 2 bolts at anchor, removed 2 plus the hanger off of the 3rd. 04/07 Julie Haas, Greg Barnes
Sour Mash Replaced 26 bolts. All remaining bad bolts replaced. 10/01 Mike White, Greg Barnes, Barry Hutten
Sour Mash to Early Times Connector pitch Replaced both protection bolts on this Urioste 5.9 connector pitch, which leads left from the top of the first 10a pitch of Sour Mash to the upper part of pitch 2 of Early Times. 10/01 Greg Barnes, Mike White, Barry Hutten
Spare Rib 13 bolts replaced: all bolts on the first three pitches replaced, except the protection bolt on pitch 1. This protection bolt was placed prior to the invention of thin cams and the crack protects with any cams in the 0.6"-1" range (not very "thin" by today's standards; green, yellow, or red alien), and can also be protected with nuts. The protection bolt on the
low-angle pitch 4 is still original, but most parties rap from pitch 3.



05/05 Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann
Spark Plug Replaced anchor 03/04 Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann
Triassic Sands replaced pitch 3 anchor, pitch 4 protection bolt, and pitch 4 anchor (5 bolts total).
03/06 Greg Barnes, Anthony Anagnostou, Constantine
Severis
The Next Century Replaced 2 bolts at pitch 1 belay, and 6 hangers on 2nd. 11/02 Sam Johnson, Karin Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes
They Call the Wind %$#@! Replaced the second protection bolt. 03/06 Greg Barnes
Triassic Sands Replaced 2 bolts; 3 excess bolts removed. Old anchor bolt replaced at pitch 2 anchor (this bolt was in a flare above current anchor, and was eliminated, and a good bolt placed next to two OK modern bolts at the current anchor), and 4 protection bolts next to a loose flake on pitch 3 were replaced with one good bolt at the original second bolt. These bolts may or may not have been original, and since there is no solid pro due to the flake and since there are some loose/suspect holds, consensus was that one should be replaced even though the climbing is easy. 11/01 Greg Barnes, Jesse Jackson, Jason Addy
Ultraman Replaced all bolts (7 pro, 2 anchor) 11/09 John Wilder
Welcome to Red Rocks Replaced the very sketchy 1/4" bolt with Leeper hanger which protected the crux.
05/07 Greg Barnes, Josh Janes.
Yellow Brick Road Replaced 13 bolts; all remaining 1/4"bolts replaced. 03/01 Mike White, Rick Poedtke, Jack Hoeflich, Matthew Schutz, Greg Barnes
Y2K Replaced 2 hangers. 11/02 Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Sam Johnson