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Needles  
 

Needles

Special Note: Magic Dragon/Magician descent
Route Notes Date Thanks to
Ankles Away/Pegleg  Anchor replaced. 08/06 Clint Cummins
Atlantis Pulled 3, placed 4 -- 2nd & 3rd pitch belays. 09/00 Greg Barnes
Charlatan Summit Spire anchor Replaced both bolts. 08/05 Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann
Bad Fortune Replaced anchor on pitch 1; replace 3 protection bolts. 07/07 Steve Bullock

Danse Macabre/Fantasia/left start to Broomsticks
First 2 protection bolts replaced
(third is good).
08/05 Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Josh Janes, Gina Hoag
Don Juan Wall Replaced anchors on pitch 3 and pitch 4. 2009 Kris Solem
Dulldrills Replaced bolts and shared anchor for Lumpy Fish. 2009 Kris Solem
Fancy Free Anchor pitch 2 replaced. 08/05 Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann
Frustration With The Redhead First 3 pro bolts replaced. 08/05 Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann
Great White Direct Replaced anchor at the top of pitch 1. 2009 Kris Solem
Ice Pirates Repalced pitch 2 anchor. 07/07 Stev bullock
Imaginary Voyage Pitch 2 protection bolt and anchor bolt replaced. 08/05 Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann
Jughead First pro bolt pitch 2 replaced (2 more old bolts higher). 08/05 Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Josh Janes, Gina Hoag
Lost At Sea Replaced 2 anchor bolts with Fixe double ring hangers 09/00 Greg Barnes
Lumpy the Fish Replaced bolts and shared anchor for Dulldrills. 2009 Kris Solem
Poof Replaced the bolt. 08/05 Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann
Pyrotechnics Replaced both protection bolts with 1/2" bolts 09/00 Greg Barnes
Rap From Sorcerer Pulled extra 1/4" bolt and patched hole 09/00 Greg Barnes
Red Snapper Replaced pitch 1 anchor. Note: there are only 3 bolts, not 5, on this pitch. 07/07 Steve Bullock
Scirocco

Replaced 3 bolts on pitch 2, Five extra 1/4" bolts removed. All bolts on this route are 3/8" or larger; the huge angle-iron bolt on the 2nd pitch has a giant 3/8" buttonhead bolt which would be nearly impossible to remove without major damage to the rock.    

06/04 Greg Barnes
Spontaneous Combustion Replaced both protection bolts with 1/2" bolts 09/02 Greg Barnes
Spooky Anchor on pitch 1 replaced. 08/05 Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann
Wailing Banshees Replaced the protection bolt with a 1/2" bolt 09/02 Greg Barnes
Wicked First protection bolt replaced. 08/05 Greg Barnes, Josh Janes
 
Special Note, Magic Dragon/Magician descent:
Please note that climbers are NOT permitted to enter the USFS fire lookout tower on Magician Needle after 6pm on Wednesday-Sunday, or at all on Monday or Tuesday. The tower is a private residence, and one climber even broke out a window accidentally one night, from the rack swinging into a window after hopping the railing. Because this is the top-out for the Needles' longest, and one of the most moderate, routes (Magic Dragon, 12-pitch 5.8), it is common for climbing parties to finish after 6pm.
In June 2003, the Southern Sierra Climbers Association & ASCA added a new 2-station bolted rap route to the upper west face of the Magician Needle. This rappel is set up for rapping with a single 60m rope, although it can be done with a single 50m (see details and pictures below). The upper rap station is 15 feet straight below the SW corner of the tower railing, on the S side of the "Wave" of rock. This is the left end of the "sidewalk" that you reach immediately after doing the 5.8 section of the last pitch. Rap 90' down and left to the next bolts, which are between the two lightning cables. This is close to the end of the rope, so tie knots. Then, rap 50' down and left to a dirt platform behind a big flake. If you rap straight down, it's 90' to the ground at the big tree, but more annoying to scramble up the top of the gully.
Also, there are slings around a great constriction at the end of the ramp (blue arrow, before the 5.8 pitch). If you rap from the upper bolts to here, then to the lower bolts, then stay left on the last rap to the flake, the rap can be done with a single 50m rope.
Note the green lines, which indicate the lightning cables. You rap past the right one, which ends just above the level of the second bolted station (green circle). Don't pull on the cables, since people pulling on the lightning cables have damaged the top of the tower and compromised the electrical safety in the tower, which was built in 1938! Please use the rappel stations, and don't impose on the lookout after hours. This will also help avoid any friction with the US Forest Service, which could result in climbing access problems.